Taiwanese Beauty Snake Caresheet

My girl Ellie:

Brumation

"Brumation is a term used for the hibernation-like state that cold-blooded animals utilize during very cold weather. On the other end of the spectrum is a state known as aestivation, which like brumation, provides a way for reptiles to handle temperature extremes." - google define

"Brumation is an example of dormancy in reptiles that is similar to hibernation. It differs from hibernation in the metabolic processes involved.

As a general idea, brumation is just that, as previously stated, your snake will slow down, potentially preferring the cold hide and start refusing food.  This happened and is happening to my girl (November 13th) as it's getting much colder outside.  The temperature inside and in her enclosure has remained constant and I haven't lowered it.  She is choosing this and food is still being offered, last night it was two medium mice.  I dangled with tongs, moved it around, let her smell it, etc.  She just shied away and wanted nothing to do with them.  So I left the mice on her feeding tray outside of the cold hide (where she currently is) and this morning they were both still there.  So I repeated the process of enticing her to eat with no success.  They were discarded.

As an illustration, the temperature gradient of taiwan:

 and of Chicago (where I am):

For about a month and some change I've had her in a 10 gallon tank, and while it was small, she was OK.  Today she was moved into her 125 gallon enclosure with a large soaking tub, 2 feet of flexwatt under and the ugh that was on the 10 as back heat, fake plants for her to climb on, etc.  Hopefully she likes it.  It does look much nicer overall.  I'll have some pics up pretty soon.

11-6-14

Last night, Wednesday, was a feed day.  She accepted the first mouse by tong right away and ate it in front of us, my son included.  I hope he enjoyed the 'live' show.  And I think he did.  I left the other mouse in the tank with her, she didn't touch it, so it was removed this morning.  I'll try again today maybe.  I'm not that worried about that, but...

Prior to the feed, I had taken her out for her daily handling and I noticed that on the very tip of her tail she was missing scales and it was red, seems to be a bad shed last time after all.  That's no good.  I just hope it doesn't get infected.  The length of it is maybe a centimeter or less so it's not huge, but it does look painful and seeing as these are semi-arboreal it's something that will be used.  I don't know what'll happen to that portion of her tail honestly.  I guess either it'll heal and be fine (best outcome), not heal and fall off then heal all be it shorter (second best outcome), not heal and get infected (worst outcome).  I'll have to wait and see, and I'm considering a vet visit because of it.  I don't think it's necrosis / necrotic / hematoma yet, but she might need antibiotics.

11/2/14

I followed the standard Sunday routine of two defrosted medium mice and some privacy. It worked, she ate them both. I didn't do anything different than my last couple of posts in terms of thawing/prep/placement/etc. So I couldn't have been that far off in my guess at a good routine.

Prior to the feeding, maybe 6 hours earlier, I had taken her out and let her move around quite a bit, after a long warm up on me, she did just that.  And very much didn't want to be put back in her enclosure.  Good.

She seems to be getting much more use to being handled.  She never really had a problem with it, but now she just hangs out until I move around and she thinks it's time to play (read: escape).  And the 'staying on my wrist' time is getting better as well, I'm guessing that in a year or two of doing this I'll be able to take her out to a show or two, that'll be fun.

The night before that I gave her another warm water bath as there were some remnant scale flakes on her belly, hopefully that took care of them.  She still hates the bath.  I'm guessing that has more to do with being a semi-arboreal snake than it does with her specifically.

After what seemed like forever, but was really two missed feeds, and some very nervous behavior she shed and ate one mouse of the two offered.  I had been giving her nightly warm baths (which she hates) along with a moist hide to promote the shedding that was bound to happen.

The signs for a shed were all there, dull scales, clear then cloudy blue eyes then back to clear, etc.  During the bath last night I noticed the first pieces of shed starting to come off her belly scales, but even then just a little, so over the course of the bath I let her move through my nearly closed hand and by the end about 25% of her shed hand come off.  Later that night I noticed that she had made a full shed in her enclosure and was bright and moving around quite a bit let alone there was the rest of the shed sitting there. Awesome.  I had noticed her wheezing as she exhaled in the bath, thought it might be a sign of a respiratory infection or worse, but it was just because of all the shedding and stopped after she was done.

After I noticed that, I warmed up the first mouse and put it in with her, it didn't take her more than 15 minutes to find and consume it, but only after everyone left the room.  The next mouse didn't go so well, and she just wouldn't eat it.  So I removed it this morning.

All in all I'm feeling better and I'd guess so is she.

REPTILE ENCLOSURES By Melissa Kaplan anapsid.org Substrates for Reptiles Substrates commonly used in reptile enclosures include those in the list below. Some of these substrates are inappropriate for some reptiles. Some are inappropriate for all reptiles and are included here so that you will be forewarned against buying them despite pet store recommendations and the implied or explicit wording on product packaging and advertisements. Substrates should not be collected in the wild as the soil, leaves, sand, gravel, etc., may contain organisms that are harmful to your reptile. Even if you don't use herbicides and pesticides in your yard, these chemicals are transported through the air as both dry and wet deposits, and so contaminate soil, leaves, and the woody parts of plants, even those at some distance from the point of application. Particulate substrates, even when made from "natural" or "biodegradable" products such as plant fibers, should not be used for any lizard who smells with its tongue. Particles become stuck to the tongue and are swallowed. Over time, they may build up in the gut causing a serious, even fatal, impaction. Particulate substrates can be problematic for both snakes and lizards as it can become stuck to their hemipenes or everted cloacal tissues when they are defecating, being taken up into the cloaca when the tissue or hemipenes are retracted. This can cause injury and/or infection. Some fine particulates may get into the eyes of lizards who have no moveable eyelids, causing irritation, injury, serious infection, or even blinding them. Small, sharp particulates may also scratch the protective covering of snake's eyes, which in turn may lead to infection. Sometimes, the most convenient substrate is not the best substrate for the reptile. Many substrates are being marketed towards specific species even though they have demonstrated track records of causing serious illness, even death, for those species. Naturalistic habitats may look natural and pleasing, but they are missing the key elements that allow the habitat to work in the wild. There are no decomposers, those invertebrates and microorganisms that do the work breaking down and recycling plant and animal wastes. This means that even naturalistic habitats must be regularly cleaned, including any plants that are contaminated with feces. When deciding whether to go with a naturalistic set up or a more artificial setup, keep in mind the greater amount of time, effort, and expense it will take to keep naturalistic environments clean and in control. Sands Fine Beach Sand Available at aquarium stores or aquarium sections of large pet stores. May cause problems with reptiles who may pick up the fine grains with their tongues when lick-smelling or whose hemipenes or cloacal tissue are everted during defecation. To some extent, all sand carries this risk. Playground Sand When bought new (available in 50 lb. bags from hardware stores and large toy stores such as Toys R Us) this is a clean, medium-sized, rounded grain with some variation in the size and color of the grains. A good, all-purpose choice. A good conductor of heat. Suitable for larger desert species. Wet foods should be offered on sand-free platters or shallow bowls, or the reptiles fed outside the enclosure in an empty or paper towel-lined enclosure. Please note, however, that hatchlings/neonates of desert species should be kept on non-particulate substrate for the first 3 to 6 months or so until they are big enough to not experience problems with the sand. Silica Sand These densely packed fine grains do not conduct heat as evenly as the coarser playground sand. They can generate dust that, along with the fine sand particles themselves, stick to eyes, tongue, and body. Should be avoided for most desert and all other species. Gravel/Stones Lava Rock Not suitable for substrate or decoration. They are known to contain lead and so are frowned upon for use with any animal. In addition, they are extremely rough and can easily injure delicate skin and abrade shells, leading to bacterial and fungal infections. Pea GravelWash before using to remove dust. Good heat conductor. Generally used as the bottom layer to promote heat conduction and provide a bottom drainage layer when live plants and a soil top dressing is used. Polished StonesThese are not suitable for substrate but may be used to add interest to naturalistic habitats. They may also be used to create, when securely glued together, decorative rocky walls and caves. They should not be used to create climbing walls for saxicolous lizards as they are too smooth for climbing. They can be used to form easily accessible "stepped" walls or outcroppings for climbing and basking. The problem with using them as a substrate is that they require copious amounts of water and time to thoroughly wash, disinfect, and rinse the disinfectant from them on a regular basis. Wood and Paper Products BarkOrchid bark is available in plant nurseries. It is also packaged and sold in pet stores for reptiles. While it is often used as the sole substrate, is it not a good conductor of heat, and cannot be burrowed into comfortably by fossorial reptiles. It is not easily cleaned when kept with messy eaters or reptiles with wet fecal deposits and so must be frequently replaced. It is also ingested by some lizards and can cause serious, even fatal, impactions. Small amounts may be mixed in soil and sand substrates for reptiles for whom soil or sand is appropriate. Butcher paper Plain butcher paper may be used to line the bottom of enclosures. It is not particularly absorbent but is free of inks that may be harmful to reptiles. Large rolls may be purchased at restaurant supply stores. MulchCypress mulch is available in many areas. Used alone for some reptiles, it is also suitable for mixing with soil to lighten it and provide a more attractive mix. It cannot be cleaned and so has to be removed and replaced with fresh mulch when soiled. Newspaper (printed) Layers of newspaper have been used for years in animal keeping. It is relatively absorbent when several layers are used, and inexpensive to replace. However, colored inks are known to be harmful to animals, and there may also be problems with the plain black ink. (Cedar shavings were accepted as a safe bedding for years before it was discovered that the volatile oils caused skin, respiratory and reproductive system damage.) In an enclosed space, an animal who relies heavily on olfactory and tongue chemosensation may be overwhelmed by the pungent odors of the inks, even the new soy-based inks. Newsprint paper (unprinted) Unprinted sheets may be obtained at stores selling moving supplies, or roll ends may be obtained from some newspapers. As with printed newspaper, it is relatively absorbent when several sheets are used, especially when layered with paper towels. Unlike printed newspaper, the unprinted sheets and rolls are not impregnated with potentially harmful inks. Paper towels Easily obtained and relatively inexpensive, paper towels make an excellent substrate for reptiles with belly injuries and those in the early stages of quarantine. Shavings Aspen and pine shavings may be used for snakes and fossorial lizards. The shavings cannot be cleaned and so have to be removed and replaced with fresh shavings when soiled. At least once a month, all shavings should be removed and disposed of, and the entire enclosure cleaned and disinfected before new shavings are placed inside. Cedar shavings are toxic for all animals and should never be used in predator or prey enclosures. Cedar and redwood should not be used in constructing housing for any animal, nor in any furniture or paneling in a room in which any animals are housed. Litters General Precaution Particulate litters are inappropriate for any lizard that uses its tongue for chemoreception. The litters become stuck to the tongue and are ingested. Even if such litters do not contain toxic chemicals, they may get stuck in the intestines, causing a rupture or impaction. They may also get stuck on everted hemipenes or cloacal tissue when the lizard defecates and so be taken up into the cloaca where they may cause injury or infection. Many litters are marketed as "natural" or "biodegradable;" some even claim to be "digestible" and "safe for use with reptiles." They may be made of natural materials such as wood, corncob, nut shells, and plant fibers, but this does not mean that they will be safely broken down and/or passed through a reptilian digestive tract. While some small pieces may pass safely through the reptile, experienced reptile vets can attest to the fact that too many become lodged in the gut, requiring surgery to extract - if the impaction is caught before it is too late. Alfalfa Pellets While not technically a litter, these alfalfa-based rabbit and small mammal food pellets may be used as a substrate for some lizards. The problem with these pellets is that, like the walnut shell litter, they quickly decompose and grow bacteria and fungi when they are wetted by food, water, feces or urates. They are unsuitable for chelonians, who may develop gait irregularities and foot deformities from trying to keep their footing on the highly mobile pellets. They are rather rough for burrowing snakes and smaller lizards. They may be used with green iguanas and prehensile-tailed skinks as they will break down in the gut if eaten and so will not cause intestinal impactions so long as the lizard is drinking regularly and eating moistened food. The pellets must be cleaned out as soon as they are wetted, however, or they will decompose and create an unhealthful environment both for the lizards and the students. Cat Litter Many of the litters made for cats are toxic to other animals. They are also very dusty and can cause respiratory and eye infections. These litters are also dehydrating and will cause skin and other problems for any animal kept on them. Clay LittersThese litters are unsuitable for reptiles. When ingested, they can cause intestinal impactions. Corn Cob LitterAlong with the risk of impaction and injury due to accidental ingestion or uptake, corn cob can abrade the mouth of reptiles setting up ideal conditions for mouth rot (ulcerative stomatitis) to start. Pieces may also become lodged in the glottis of smaller reptiles and cause death by asphyxiation. Bacterial and fungal growths resulting from cob wetted by food, water, urates, and feces are common with corn cob and may cause illness or skin infections in the reptiles. Lizard/Reptile Litters Most reptile litters are just plant or other pet litters repackaged and marketed to reptile owners. They are made of wood shavings or compressed wood fibers, compressed recycled paper fibers, processed plant fibers, or clay. They are no safer for reptiles than other animal litters made of the same materials. Paper Litters May cause intestinal impactions if ingested. The dust may cause respiratory and eye irritations and infections. At least one brand causes almost an immediate respiratory inflammation in prehensile-tailed skinks (Corusia zebrata). Walnut Shell Litter ("Desert Sand") Largely nonabsorbent, these small, sharp particles are unsuitable due to the risk of injury and impaction if ingested. The litter provides a wonderful home for the bacteria and fungi that grow due to contamination of the litter by spilled food, water, urates, and feces. Soils and Mosses Sphagnum Moss Sphagnum moss is suitable for use in parts of riparian, pond-side, terrestrial and fossorial enclosures. It is moistened and kept damp to provide a microclimate of higher humidity. There have been some reports of animal keepers developing serious fungal infections from contact with spore-infected sphagnum moss. Moss should be periodically thoroughly dried out. It can be baked at 250ºF (121ºC) for one hour. Soil Collected from OutdoorsThis is unsuitable for use unless you are taking some from where a wild-caught reptile was found and the reptile will only be kept for a day or two before being released at the site of capture. The soil and accompanying organic debris contains microorganisms, parasites, and environmental toxins that may be harmful to non-native species and to native species who have been in captivity for a long time. Peat Moss / Potting Soil This is soil or pulverized sphagnum moss that has been processed and sterilized. Bags of plain soil may be easily purchased at supermarkets, garden centers, building supply stores, and other stores with a large garden section. Read the packaging carefully to avoid buying those soils that have been mixed with fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, vermiculite, or perlite. The latter two items may cause gut impactions if ingested, while the former are toxic to reptiles. Spanish Moss This may be wild-collected or purchased in garden supply stores. It should be baked (as described for sphagnum moss above) or frozen for at least one month to kill the chiggers that reside in it. As with sphagnum moss, it is suitable for use in small portions to provide microclimates or burrowable pockets for fossorial reptiles. Carpeting General Precaution The glue used in most carpeting outgases for several days, even weeks after installation. To ensure the safety of your reptiles, air out pieces that will be used in their enclosures for at least a week before installing it. When carpeting your home or school room, all animals, but especially birds and reptiles, should be removed to a safe location for 10-14 days until the rooms are completely aired out and toxic gasses dissipated. Even when using carpeting with special, environmentally friendly (less toxic, vastly reduced outgassing) backings, the animals should be removed for several days to let outgassing chemicals dissipate thoroughly. Astroturf® / Artificial Grass Astroturf® was the first artificial grass floor covering. Since then, carpet manufacturers have come out with many grades of artificial grass. Hardware stores and builder supply stores generally carry two or more grades. The least expensive is generally the best to use. It is more flexible, an important factor for thorough cleaning and disinfecting. The ragged cut edges may be folded under and basted to prevent fraying. Pieces can be washed and disinfected repeatedly before they require replacing. This substrate can be used for any terrestrial, arboreal, or fossorial reptile. It is cheap enough that several pieces can be cut for each enclosure and rotated each cleaning day. The pieces of artificial grass substrate sold in small, prepackaged pieces in many pet stores and mail order pet suppliers is the same as the product sold in builder supply stores. Indoor/ Outdoor CarpetingThis product, also available at builder supply stores, looks more like indoor carpeting but is made for outdoor use as well. In its construction, it is more like the more rigid, more expensive grades of artificial grass and is difficult to clean and disinfect. Household / Industrial CarpetingWith their deeper piles and very rigid backings, these carpets are difficult to clean and disinfect, and should be avoided for use as a substrate. They may be used to cover slick tubes or branches to create climbers for lizards (similar to cat trees made for cats). Reptile Carpeting These are fibrous, absorbent pads made in sizes to fit standard-sized enclosures. They wick the moisture away from the surface, but since most reptile deposits are solid feces rather than urates, this feature will not reduce cleaning time except for those species who deposit very dry, compact pellets. Expensive when compared to suitable household products. Other Materials Terry Cloth TowelsTerry cloth towels may be inexpensively obtained from thrift shops. They are easily cleaned and disinfected by machine washing in hot water, soap, and bleach. They are especially suited for reptiles in quarantine or with abdominal injuries. Linoleum Self-stick tiles may be inexpensively obtained from building supply stores. They may be grouted around the outside edges with aquarium silicone grout. Linoleum tiles are easily cleaned and disinfected and provide a durable flooring for large arboreal lizards and snakes. Excerpt from Master's Thesis Classroom Reptiles, Sonoma State University, Rohnert Park CA. 1997

Substrates for Reptiles: Caveat Emptor There appears to be a lot of choice out there in substrates marketed for reptiles. Fortunately, the decision making isn't so difficult, once you realize how dangerous or inappropriate so many of them are for your reptiles. Clarification of Terms The labels the product manufacturers use to tout the supposed safety and desirable qualities of their products unfortunately bear little relation to the reality of the nature of the material and form their products take. "Digestible" Substrates There is little difference between those substrate products that claim to be "digestible" vs. those that are indigestible. 'Digestible' means that which can be safely broken down and nutrients extracted; 'indigestible' is that which cannot be broken down. Indigestible matter may or may not be able to pass through the intestinal tract to be eliminated with the waste products. If it doesn't pass through, it can form an obstruction in the gut, one which may eventually block the passage of ingesta or, if farther down the tract, can prevent feces from being passed through to elimination. Indigestible matter can also puncture or abrade the gut lining, causing perforation, sepsis, or inflammation. All wood, paper, sand, litter and cob products are indigestible, regardless of the fact that they were created from organic (previously living plant) sources. "It's Natural! It's Biodegradable!" Disposable diapers are biodegradable...it takes, what, 300 years? Orange peels are also biodegradable - they only take 5 years when exposed to the elements. Biodegradability is *not* an appropriate criteria when deciding on a substrate in so far as using it as a measure of safety for the species. CareFresh is a wood product...and consistently causes respiratory infections in prehensile tailed skinks. I've also noticed that water in snake enclosures evaporate faster when this bedding is used than when I use pine shavings. Shavings, wood and paper pellets have caused and will continue to cause intestinal blockages in reptiles of many different species...just because it is "natural" (wood) or "biodegradable" does not mean, as product manufacturers and pet stores imply, that they are safe for use as substrates... If that line of reasoning were true, there'd be no cause for concern with our iguanas eat things like coins (metal biodegrades), balloons (latex is natural), oleander (it's a plant and iguanas are herbivores, right?). Bottom line: pet product manufacturers have one primary goal: their bottom line, not the health of your pet. You must become a proactive consumer and learn to ignore the hype and marketing department's hyperbole and half-truths, and evaluate the product itself. Examples of Problematic Substrates Calci-Sand T-Rex touts their Calci-Sand as a calcium supplement. Unfortunately, this is harmful for most reptiles, such as green iguanas; if they do ingest it, it will cause impactions, just like all other particulate substrates. Desert animals who live on sand don't ingest enough of it to make it worth the expense, not when plain, cleaned playground sand can be purchased for about $5 per 50 pound bag. Bottom line: The way to prevent metabolic bone disease is not by dumping a bag of an overpriced, potentially harmful, substrate into their enclosure, but to provide a proper calcium supplement for those species who need it; feed a properly constructed and supplemented diet to herbivores and omnivores; feed healthy prey to carnivores, omnivores, and insectivores; and provide UVB-producing fluorescents or direct unfiltered sunlight to those species dependent on UVB for the formation of pre-vitamin D for adequate calcium metabolism. Repti-Bark Zoo Med's Repti-Bark and other bark products are indeed "an all natural product made from the ground bark of fir trees." They do not, however, make a "perfect cage substrate for all high humidity loving reptiles [including] Iguanas, Anoles, Hermit crabs, Tarantulas, Toads and many types of Geckos." Just ask all the iguana owners whose iguanas have died from ReptiBark gut impactions, or were saved by having the vet cut them open and remove clumps of bark from their intestines. Sani-Chips, Bed-a-Beast and Bedding BarkThese products have the same problems: they are wood and so are not suitable for many reptiles, despite manufacturer and seller claims. The most hysterical claim, if one can find such things amusing, is that they are "sanitary" (due to being heat treated) and "mite-free." Well, everything is mite-free until it is exposed to mites! There are no manufacturers out there intentionally impregnating their particulate substrates with mites. That happens in pet stores when the stores accept mite-infested animals from their wholesalers, distributors, or from people walking in off the street. The mites, which generally proliferate under the inattentive/uncaring eye of the pet shop employees, start doing what mites do: wander around and breed like the tiny arthropods they are. Within a few short weeks, all wood products within mite strolling or hitchhiking distance has been colonized by mites. Buy the wood product, and you have now colonized your reptiles' enclosures with them. As for sanitary, they are sanitary only until they are wetted by food, urates, feces, or blood. If you don't clean the enclosure regularly, including disposing of soiled substrata and cleaning and disinfecting the enclosure surfaces, it doesn't matter how sanitary a substrate is when it starts out. Walnut Cob/Walnut Litter/"Desert Sand" Many years ago, bird keepers became aware of the problem associated with using walnut shell litter for their birds: shortly after being wetted with water or feces and urates, a colony of bacteria started growing, often underneath the surface of the litter. So, what happened when the walnut shell recyclers found they'd lost a significant share of the bird market? Repackaged their crushed shells for reptiles, of course! One went one step farther and touted theirs as safer than sand. Given that I've never seen sand get moldy, that's a pretty odd claim to make. Why is walnut shell (and corn cob, for that matter) not suitable for reptiles? Aside from promoting bacterial and fungal growth (yes, even when they have been "heat treated" at the factory), they can stick to the hemipenes/cloacal tissue when it is everted during defecation and are thus retracted up into the body, causing irritations and inflammation. They also cause irritation, inflammation or injury to the digestive tract if ingested intentionally or accidentally - and no matter how closely you watch your reptile, you aren't watching it 24/7. If that reptile is an arboreal lizard who spends a great deal of time investigating new things with its tongue, ingestion is guaranteed. Particulate Litters = Particular Problems Another problem with particulate litters in general is that clumps of feces/urates/litter tend to get buried under a layer of litter in the course of the reptile moving around its enclosure, so the moldy clumps may not be found for a while...leaving the reptile to come into physical contact with it, which helps break it up and create airborne spores or particles that are then inhaled, infect tiny skin defects, or get into the eyes, all of which can cause inflammation and infection. Some litters, like the CareFresh, are so dusty all the time that many reptiles develop respiratory infections within 24 hours due to the inflammation caused by inhaling dust particles. Prehensile-tailed skinks are particularly prone to this. For a less inflammatory look at substrates and appropriate uses of, please see the Substrates for Reptiles article. Substrates for Green Iguanas and Other Large Arboreal Lizards Linoleum easiest of all to clean and disinfect Terry cloth towels cheap to get, can be machine washed with bleach Paper towels not as 'green' environmentally, but safe and easy "Astroturf" (Indoor/Outdoor artificial grass carpeting) can be cheap but wears out and kind of a drag to clean and\par disinfect when you get into big pieces Butcher or Freezer paper a bit slippery when wet but not as fumy as newsprint or newspaper. Available at restaurant supply houses. Unprinted newsprint can actually be pretty expensive if purchased at moving supply store; may be obtained in remnant rolls from newspapers. Less toxic than printed newspaper Alfalfa pellets safe edible, the only truly digestible particulate substrate, but sometimes dusty; wetted portions must be removed ASAP as it gets moldy very quickly in warm iguana enclosures Do not use ANY particulate matter, including those new lizard litters and bark products that claim to be safe for iguanas...they are not. No sand, gravel, rocks, cat litter, paper litter, any kind of litter corn cob, shavings, bark, "calcium sand" or sand of any kind.

REPTILE CARE SERIES By Melissa Kaplan anapsid.org Reptile Skin Shedding All animals, at regular intervals, shed their skin. Some, like humans, do it relatively unobtrusively in a sort of ongoing process (we shed 1.5 million skin cells every hour with a new skin surface every 28 days or so). Others do it quickly and cleanly, like the one-piece sheds produced by snakes and tarantulas. Most lizards are rather more leisurely about it, with their skin coming off in patches. Some lizards are like snakes, tarantulas, and stick insects: they climb out of their old skin, leaving it behind in one piece. Chelonians Turtles and tortoises, terrestrial and aquatic alike, shed their skin. Just as they are anatomically structured rather differently than snakes and lizards, so, too is their shed a bit different. The skin of the head, neck, limbs and tail sheds off on a regular basis, just as it does in snakes and lizards, with the skin coming off in pieces. If the terrestrial chelonian is too dry, the skin may hang like tattered rags, waving in the breeze made as the chelonian walks around. A quick spray with water, or a chance to wallow a bit in a shallow pan of water is generally all that is needed. Do not let species from arid climates do a lot of soaking. Some, like Russian tortoises, seem to be programmed to take as much time soaking as possible whenever water is available, as it is not often available in their native range. Provide a constant source of soaking water for them, and they will stay in it to the point of causing shell rot. Some species of tortoise and other terrestrial chelonians may take advantage of more humid microclimates in the wild, burrowing under plants, digging into the earth around their roots where moisture may be retained long after it has dried up on the surface of the ground. These species may benefit from the occasional wallow, soak or spray when they appear to be having problems shedding. The skin of aquatic species, on the other hand, hangs off of the limbs, tail, neck or head in a sort of filmy flag until it finally tears completely away. The skin covering the bony scutes also shed off. These are more often seen in aquatic species, found by panicked owners who spot them at the bottom of the tank or see them in mid-shed. Iguana Pre-Shed IndicatorsPrior to a shed, you will notice that the iguana starts to change colors. The iguana's overall color will get dimmer, duller. Starting around his head and hands, gray or white patches will start to appear (they will look like they are wearing a white glove on one hand). The patches will appear first in the head, then back, arms, then tail, as the different areas get closer to actually shedding. Typically, iguanas start shedding at their heads, with the progression going down the body, limbs, and finally tail. Everything comes off, including the skin, over their ears, and the spikes along the back. The skin on their eyelids will also shed off. At one point in the pre-shed period, you may walk in to find your iguana has suddenly turned into some wild, bug-eyed monster. Lying quietly, its closed eyes are puffed out 2 to 3 times their normal size. This is quite natural - they are puffing them up with air as a way to loosen the old skin. In a few days you will notice them rubbing their closed eyes against any handy surface as they begin to loosen and rub the skin off. Gentle head rubs, with your thumb and finger sliding over the closed lids, are particularly welcomed at this time. If you do not regularly bathe or spray your iguana with water, you may wish to do so during pre-shed and shed periods. In the wild, the natural humidity in the air and the free access to rivers and streams helps the oily fluid build-up between the skin layers keep the old skin soft and supple as it peels off. In our much drier captive environments, the loosened pieces may dry out too quickly, resulting in a much slower shed. Spraying with plain tap water is all you need to do; the expensive vitamin and moisturizing sprays are of unnecessary and not any better than plain water in a $0.99 spray bottle. Shed Generally speaking, don't pull the skin if it isn't ready to come off. Iguanas and other lizards will rub themselves against things to help loosen and rid themselves of skin. Mostly, though, they just sort of look like they are wearing raggedy clothes, with strips and patches of skin hanging loose and flapping around. If the skin is ready to come off, you can help it do so by gently pulling at it. If the skin is not ready to come off, there will be resistance, and the skin you remove will be damp. Often times, spikes need help to shed completely; gently working at them over the course of several days, loosening the skin at the base and spraying them with water will help. If shed is left on, it may constrict the growth of the living tissue from which the spikes are made, resulting in the tissue dying and the spikes falling or breaking off. The same problem can happen with toes and the narrow tail ends. If old shed is not removed, it can constrict the toes and tails, killing the tissue by strangling the nerve and blood supply that feeds it. Many books and vets claim that carpet fibers are dangerous for this reason yet, in all my years of free-roaming iguanas on wall-to-wall carpeting, I have never had such a problem. I have taken in many iguanas, however, with two, three, up to five layers of retained skin shed on toes and spikes...many of who lost toes and spikes as a result. Part of your regular weekly, if not daily, overall examination of the iguana should be checking toes, tails, and spikes to ensure that they are clean, free of skin, fibers, and human or pet hair. Sometimes the grommet-shaped pieces of skin around the nostrils may not come off and, as your iguana nears its next shed, you begin to hear a sort of distant whistling sound as it breathes. After the next bath, work at this area gently to remove any such retained shed. A healthy iguana will shed every 4 to 6 weeks. Iguanas aged 2 to 3 years may easily shed more often. It is not uncommon to have an iguana be in the middle of one shed when the next shed starts. During these times, they seem to be little more than skin-producing machines, inhaling food and producing prodigious amounts of both poop and mounds of shed. It is common for such growth to slow down during our winters, and during this time of slowed growth and reduced food intake, iguanas will often not shed. Where I live in Northern California, the last shed usually occurs in November, with the first shed of the new year occurring in January or February, depending upon our weather patterns. If your iguana is not shedding and it is not the winter slow-growth period, there is a problem. It may be that the environment is wrong, the diet is not nutritious enough to promote growth or normal skin renewal processes, or your iguana is sick. The iguana may also be psychologically stressed. A review of the environment and diet is necessary, as is a review of any other factors that may affect how the iguana responds psychologically/socially to his environment. Slow growers should also be seen by a reptile veterinarian to ensure that they are not suffering from bacterial infections, parasite infestations, or other medical problems. Other Lizards Much of the information in the iguana section pertains to other lizards, whether they shed in one piece (alligator lizards) or in many pieces. As with iguanas, a change in overall color will occur, usually a dulling. A healthy lizard will shed completely within a week or two. An unhealthy or stressed lizard will take much longer (see Problem Sheds). Like iguanas, other lizards with movable eyelids will puff out their eyes in the days before their head shed starts. This can be particularly alarming, especially on chameleons (Chameleo, etc.) whose already large, protruding eyelids may swell to several times their normal size, immediately deflating when gently touched. Many lizards who, in the wild, live in more arid areas are often kept too dry in captivity. In the wild, they would make use of more humid microclimates, burrowing down into the sandy ground, or heading into rocky crevices or burrows where moisture remains despite the heat of the day. In captivity, we also need to provide them with these microclimates, either by keeping a patch of sand or other substrate damp (as for many agamids), or by providing an easily accessible humidity retreat box. In the wild, some larger lizards (monitors and tegus, for example), will soak in standing water or in river shallows. In captivity, standing water can be provided by putting into their enclosure a tub of water bowl, one large enough for the lizard to comfortably sprawl in, but deep enough so that when the lizard is fully submerged, the water doesn't overflow the tub and soak the enclosure. With large lizards, the need for such a water tub must be accounted for when designing and building an enclosure for the lizard. Snakes Snakes, like many lizards, utilize microclimates in the wild, lying in underground burrows or in rocky crevices, under windthrow (or under discarded boards around human habitation) where it is more humid. In captivity, smaller snakes can be provided with a water bowl large enough for them to comfortably (loosely) coil up in, deep enough so that when they are fully submerged, the water doesn't overflow the top of the bowl. Small to medium sized snakes (up to 5 feet / 1.5 m) snakes can instead be provided with a humidity retreat box, either as a permanent fixture in their enclosure, or one that is put in when the color changes associated with the start of the shed period are noted. Snakes will also undergo color changes prior to a shed. Boids (boas and pythons) will tend to grow dull, then get darker, sometimes becoming so dark that it is hard to differentiate their normal markings from a distance. Those boids with normally light colored bellies will often show signs of reddening and increased blotching of the belly scutes. This is normal in boids, especially pythons. Unfortunately, it can freak out the unprepared keeper as a reddening of the belly scutes is also a sign of advanced septicemia (systemic infection) and Salmonella. A good rule of thumb as to when to panic and when not to is if the reddening belly occurs in conjunction with an overall pre-shed darkening and associated behaviors, don't worry. If the reddening happens without the pre-shed color changes, and/or in conjunction with other signs of illness, worry and make a vet appointment. Most colubrids lighten up a bit, getting a milky cast to their skin, including their bellies. Sometimes you will notice a dulling of the skin on their back and sides; a look at their belly will tell you that it is a pre-shed change as the belly starts to gray or lighten up. Snakes go through a several day period where their eyes cloud up as the fluid builds up between the old and new spectacles. At its peak, the eyes are milky white with a bluish cast to them (called "white" or "blue"). Once the eyes clear, the snake will soon be ready to start its shed. I have found that if I bathe a snake (in a warm bath, for 15 to 20 minutes) the day the eyes are clear again, it will shed completely within the following 24 hours. I bathe the large snakes in the bathtub rather than wrestle a tub full of water into and out of their enclosure; smaller snakes are left to use their water bowl or humidity retreat boxes ad lib. Many snakes will defecate at the same time that they shed. Before reaching in grabbing a handful of shed skin that is partially obscured by substrate or furnishings, you might want to check it out first...or always wear a glove! A cautionary note of snake skin sheds: It is estimated that between 16% to 92% of snakes carry one or more serotypes ofSalmonella (tables and citations can be found in my Salmonella Precautions article). Researchers in one university laboratory found viable Salmonella organisms on skin sheds that had been hanging in their lab for years. Since testing forSalmonella is not very effective, use caution when letting anyone who is at high risk for salmonellosis come into contact with snake skin shed or in contact with anyone who has been handling shed skin. Always check your snake's head shed to make sure that both eyecaps ("spectacles") have come off. If they have not, take steps to removed the retained eyecaps. Pre-Shed Behavioral Changes Going into shed is apparently not a real fun thing for snakes and lizards. Most get rather cranky during this time, with some individuals becoming hissy or snappy, objecting to being held or touched. The best thing to do is to respect their ill-feeling as much as possible. If you need to get in and service their enclosure, do it, but restrict actual handling to that which is necessary. While reptiles may still eat when in the very early phase of the pre-shed period, as the period progresses, they usually lose their appetite. Most greatly reduce their food intake; others stop eating altogether until after they have shed. Some snakes will not eat while their eyes are milky; some will take a meal once the eyes have cleared but before they shed, while others will not eat until after they shed. Problem Sheds A problem shed is a shed that isn't happening like a normal, healthy shed should. With a snake or any other reptile who is supposed to shed in one piece, a problem shed would be a patchy shed. Instead of working the whole skin off in one session, only bits and pieces come off, with lots of skin retained on the body. A normal shed would be done within a period of several hours or less from the time the shed is initiated; a problem shed goes on for days or weeks with little progress. With lizards who normally shed in pieces, a problem shed would be where it is taking too long, or where skin is retained in problem areas, such as around toes, spikes, and tails. A problem shed is a sign of an even greater, underlying problem. New snakes, especially imports, typically have poor sheds their first one or two sheds in captivity. The import and pet store process is less than healthy and stress-free, and so their sheds reflect that period of prolonged stress (psychological as well as environmental). Once they are housed properly, treated for dehydration and parasites, and begin to psychologically acclimated to captivity, they become healthier, and by the third shed, should be shedding properly - quickly and in one piece. The same problems may be seen in sick and stressed lizards, especially imported ones. While their skin may normally come off in patches, instead of the shed being completed within the usual 1-3 weeks it would take for a healthy lizard, it may go on for months, with areas never shedding at all. (I took in a savanna monitor one time who had five layers of shed embedded on its back and head!) When a problem shed occurs, or one that is too slow to start or finish, you need to figure out why it is happening and correct the problem: Analyze its environment, diet, etc. Signs of Illness and Stress discusses the factors that should be considered when evaluating a reptile as well as other common signs of illness and stress. Correct the problem (adjust heat, lighting, photoperiods, microclimates, diet, separate from conspecifics, etc.). If the reptile has started, but not properly completed, a shed, you can help it along: For small lizards and snakes, set up a humidity retreat box (see the Microclimates article to find out how to make one) and introduce the reptile to it. For larger lizards and snakes, soak them in a tub of warm water (85-88 F / 29-31 C) for 10 to 15 minutes, then begin gently rubbing their skin. Snakes The old skin will start to balloon out and become easy to get off as you rub gently with your fingers and thumbs. Always work in a head-to-tail direction. Pay close attention to the eye caps, tail, and vent. If the eyecaps won't come off, you will have to take steps to carefully and safely remove them. Lizards With lizards, make sure the skin is removed from their toes, dorsal crest spikes or fans, dewlaps, and tails. If left in place, it can constrict the tissue, eventually causing an autoamputation of toes, tails and spikes. If there is still retained shed in these problem areas, wrap the damp lizard in a warm damp towel, then wrap that in a dry towel. Sit down with it for 5 minutes or so, then expose a small area of the crest, or a foot, and begin to gently work at the retained skin. If there are several layers or one very resistant layer of retained spike or toe shed, rub some mineral oil into the area while the lizard is still wet from the bath. This will help lock the moisture from the bath into that area. Do this for a couple of days (bath followed by the mineral oil worked into the spikes); this should get enough water wicked up between the layers of skin to make them very easy to remove. If the retained shed is still resistant, bathe again and, if necessary, do the towel wrap/focused work again on these areas. Shed Aid Products They are, in a word, useless. Well, that is not exactly true. The primary ingredient, by volume, is water. Water is very useful to humidify and loosen resistant skin and help it shed off appropriately. The water from your sink, tub or garden tap works just as well as the very expensive water and minuscule amount of vitamins, emollients and other nonessential and unhelpful ingredients in the shed aid products. Buying them may make you feel better, but if the shed problem is due to illness or improper environment, the products may be dangerous in that they lull you into thinking you are doing what needs to be done. If your reptile is having a problem shedding, troubleshoot the environment and the animal's overall health status. Fix the physical and social environment and get the reptile healthy, and problem sheds are simply not an issue. Where'd it go? "But wait!" you say. "Where is all that shed?" Some species of lizards will occasionally eat some of their shed. This is not a problem as long as the lizard is maintained in a clean environment. Your house very likely has some lovely fat and happy skin mites living in the carpets, mattresses and upholstered furniture. Shedding Myths There are many misunderstandings about shedding. Two common ones are: Reptiles only shed 2 to 4 times a year. Shedding is a reflection of normal growth and renewal in a healthy animal. If a reptile is not healthy, it will not shed as often as it should. For example, healthy iguana will shed every 4-6 weeks, more often during the peak growing season of spring and summer. A formerly neglected and malnourished reptile who is started on a healthy diet in a properly constructed environment may seemingly shed nonstop (each shed followed closely by another shed) for several months as it undergoes a period of rapid growth, almost like it is making up for all the years of retarded growth from the poor care it had received. As with full-grown humans, full-grown reptiles will continue to shed regularly as their old skin is ready to slough off to be replaced by the newly formed layer underneath. If you pull off shed that isn't ready to come off, you will cause mites.You won't cause mites - they aren't created out of thin air. However, pulling off skin before it is ready to come off can damage the not-fully formed keratinous scales growing in place on the new skin layer beneath the old. This can also injure the new skin layer...and mites always look for the path of least resistance when looking for a blood meal. Thin or defective (injured) skin provides less resistance to their mouthparts than does the thickened skin with its protective covering of keratinous scales. The only way for your reptile to "get" mites if you pull of skin that isn't ready to come off is if your reptile's environment is already infested with mites. There may be so few that you haven't noticed them yet...but given the right environmental conditions-and easy access to food-they will multiply with abandon. If there are no mites in the environment to begin with, there won't be any mites after you impatiently pull off a piece of shed that you shouldn't have. But your over-eagerness to be helpful will still make the iguana uncomfortable, so restrain yourself! If you missed Nova's Odyssey of Life: Part II rent or borrow it to get a close up view of the microcreatures such as the skin-eating mites who share our environment--and our bodies! Another look at these fascinating creatures can be found inFurtive Fauna: A Field Guide to the Creatures Who Live On You , by Roger M. Knutson. What The Veterinarians Say The following excerpts are from Mader, Douglas R. (ed.). 1996. Reptile Medicine and Surgery. WB Saunders, Philadelphia PA. ISBN 0-7216-5208-5 Douglas. R. Mader, DVM. Dysecdysis: Abnormal Shedding & Retained Eyecaps. pp. 368-370  Improper shedding, or dysecdysis, is a symptom of a problem and not a primary problem....Other management factors that cause improper shedding include: low temperatures in the cage, low humidity, improper nutrition, and insufficient cage furniture (logs, rocks, etc.) for rubbing. Once these husbandry factors are corrected, shedding should return to normal. ...The best method to remove tattered skin is to soak the snake in tepid water in a container deep enough to cover the snake's body but not so deep that the animal drowns. Never leave a soaking animal unattended! Some people advocate adding various medicines to the soaking water, but in the author's opinion, plain water is usually sufficient. If it becomes necessary to add an agent to the water, such as an antibacterial agent, then a diluted iodine solution (e.g., Betadine) can be used. The recommended dilution is approximately 1:50 (iodine:water), resembling weak iced tea. If the container being used is clear, you should be able to read newsprint through the dilute Betadine. If this is not possible, then the solution is too concentrated. Stephen. L. Barten, DVM. Lizards p. 324-332 Dysecdysis, or difficult shedding, may result in dry flaking, adherent patches of dead skin. The most common cause of dysecdysis is a lack of humidity. Retained skin surrounding the digits, dorsal spines, or tail tips shrinks as it dries, which compromises the blood flow. This results in necrosis and sloughing of the affected part. Retained skin must be removed by soaking and gentle peeling as soon as possible after the shed is initiated by the lizard. The species, age, state of nutrition, reproductive status, parasite load, hormonal balance, infection with bacterial or other skin pathogen, ambient temperature, and humidity may have an effect on the frequency of ecdysis. John V. Rossi, DVM. Dermatology p. 104-117 Normal ecdysis in squamates is a complex process in which cells of the intermediate zone (upper stratum germinativum) replicate and form an entirely new three-layer epidermis (called the new inner epidermal generation). Once the new surface is complete, lymph diffuses into the area and enzymatic action results in the formation of a cleavage zone, after which separation occurs (i.e., the outer generation is sloughed). This growth and shedding requires about 2 weeks in most lizards and snakes, while the resting phase may vary from days to months. One of the practical applications of this process is the increased permeability of the skin during the growth and shedding phase. Snakes sprayed with anti-mite medications at this time appear much more susceptible to such toxins than those sprayed at other times. Hence the use of topical insecticides should be sharply curtailed at this time. Another observation is that severely malnourished snakes and lizards appear to have a very difficult and irregular slough (dysecdysis). This is likely due to the fact that hypoproteinemic animals are unable to produce the full complement of enzymes necessary to complete the breakdown between new and old epidermal generations. Further more, this may explain why excessively dry environments retard normal ecdysis. Drying out the fluid in the cleavage zone compromises the enzymatic and lubricating action of the fluid, hereby resulting in an incomplete separation.

Wednesdays and Sundays being her normal feeding days, the last wednesday (10/22/14) and yesterday (10/26/14) she hasn't eaten. She was offered food last Thursday as well just in case. This morning the mouse was still there, I'm not particularly worried, but in all honesty I'd prefer if she ate. She looks like she's in shed, washed out colors, blue/grayed over eyes, etc. The moist hide over the heat mat is where she's spending all of her time now, by her choice. And when I've taken her out, yesterday for instance, she was warm and active, so that's a good sign. With the clouded eye caps though came the nervousness that is to be expected with not being able to see. But to her credit, she hasn't bitten or even threatened to bite, so I know she has a good disposition, not the easiest thing to find in general. It makes me want to make sure she's ok and going to keep remaining ok for as long as she lives.

10/23/14 After the two mice weren't eaten I had decided to try again the next night, maybe this time she would eat. Last time there was a lot of activity, bath, cage cleaning, etc. So I decided to take her out prior to giving her a mouse and she was awfully nervous almost skittish. After looking her over I noticed she had a dull look to her scales and eyes, time for a shed! Her first one with me. So I prepared the moist hide by placing whetted paper towel, just damp, in a larger flat water bowl and putting that on the warm side of her cage and placing one of her hides over it. Hopefully this'll be enough. I also placed some 3"x4" coral fragments in there with her for her to rub on. And just in case, I gave her a new mouse later that night. The next morning, this morning, the mouse wasn't eaten and she had pooped. So I cleaned it out and threw away the mouse. Hopefully she'll fully shed well and soon and start eating again.

10/22/14

Wednesday was suppose to be bath day, weekly clean cage day, and feed day.

The bath and cage cleaning was fine, the feeding not so much.  I left two thawed mice in there with her, she wouldn't touch them, so I left them overnight, woke up this morning and they were still there.  So I threw them away, I'll try again tonight.

Maybe everything in one night is just too much stress for her, she's already a shy eater.

The bath went off without a hitch and she seemed to enjoy it, I might add a bath section to the beauty snake care sheet.