Taiwanese Beauty Snake Caresheet

Taiwanese Beauty Snake [ Orthriophis taeniurus friesei ] Caresheet

Taiwan Beauty Snake Care Sheet

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TAIWANESE BEAUTY RAT SNAKE CARESHEET

Orthriophis taeniura friesei

Elaphe taeniura

Taiwan Beauty Snake

Description

  • Formal Name:

    Orthriophis taeniurus friesei
  • Origin:

    Endemic to the island of Taiwan, this species can be found in altitudes up to 1000m. Inhabiting a wide variety of landscapes from rocky areas with low vegetation, to forests and areas near water.
  • Group:

    Colubrid
  • Scale Counts:

    • Ventrals: 243 - 262
    • Subcaudals: 96 - 123
    • Dorsals: 25
  • Care Level:

    Easy to intermediate
  • Primary sense:

    Smell, touch, and sight. They are very visual based.
  • Lengths:

    • Adult male:

      About 6'-0" - 8'-0"
    • Adult female:

      About 8'-0" - 10'-0"
    • Yearling:

      Should be about 36"+ at one year old.

  • Lifespan:

    12 to 20 years.

Behavior

  • Preferred location:

    Semi-arboreal in nature.  In captivity they tend to bask if given a che.  They'll bathe if given a large enough water bowl.  If they feel like they're hiding and can't be seen they'll want to watch everything that's happening outside of their cage.  My beauty snake spends about 1/3rd of her time in her warm hide with her last 1/3rd under the che.  Second 1/3rd in her large tub that has leaf cover and watches the house and kids.  And the rest of her time in her cold hide.
  • Energy:

    Active if temps are kept high enough and feeding is monitored to not make the snake fat.  Otherwise they're lazy if cold and fat.
  • Intelligence:

    Medium for a snake, they're not on the low end like some primitive snakes or burrowing snakes, but they're also not on the high end like retics or false water cobras, or the very high end like king cobras.
  • Active period:

    Diurnal - Awake during the day, sleeps at night.  You may find, like a cat, they tend to sleep a lot.  If you provide entertainment and enrichment they'll use it.
  • Speed:

    Fast - faster than a human.  For the most part they're very cautious about open spaces and tend to move very slowly, it's the rare occasion you'll see them at full speed.
  • Temperment:

    Handling often between hatchling to juvenile is required
    • CB(B): (Captive born and bred)

      Shy if not handled regularly.  I would say that they're about equivalent to a corn snake, very easy to handle and zero biting ever.
    • WC: (Wild caught)

      Aggressive if not handled regularly

Acclimation

  • Upon purchase:

    • CB(B): (Captive born and bred)

      48 hours to 1 week
    • WC: (Wild caught) and/or any ticks or mites visible

      Two to four weeks

  • Scent acclimation:

    Take a tee-shirt and put it over your pillow for a week and sleep on it, then put that in the cage/tank with the snake, they'll like to burrow in it and they quickly get used to your smell.

Housing / Caging

  • Optimal base size:

    72"x36"x72" / Length x Width x Height. Height is just as important as length for them.
  • Minimum adult:

    125 gallon tall tank.  I have mine in a 72"x18"x24" tank and at the time of writing she's about 7' long and it's getting cramped. 
  • Cage decorations:

    Many items to climb and hide, dense foliage, sticks, logs, etc.  They greatly appreciate leaf cover, big broad leaves.
  • Security:

    Very secure, they will try to escape. So locking doors, secure lid, etc
  • Ventilation:

    Required, vent holes with covers or a mesh top.

Heating

  • Gradient:

    • Hot Side:

      80 to 84 DEG F / 26.67 to 28.89 C
    • Cool Side:

      75 DEG F / 23.89 C or room temperature

  • Basking spot:

    86 to 88 DEG F / 30 to 31.11 C. A basking spot may not be required.  They will use it if provided.
  • Night drop:

    Maintain consistent temperatures.  You don't have to change anything.
  • Determing correct temperature:

    If the snake spends a majority of time on the cool side and/or it's aggressive, lower the hot side to 80 DEG F / 26.67 DEG C.
  • Heating equipment (your choice):


Humidity

  • Active humidity:

    They prefer a humid environment of at least 50%, much higher around and during shed, almost at 80% at the minimum.
  • Passive humidity:

    No less than 50%.
  • Humid hide box:

    Required. Refer to Hides Section Below.

Hides

  • Amount:

    Two at the least. One on the hot side and one on the cold side. This lets the snake choose how to regulate temperature while still feeling safe inside of a hide. The humid hide will be the one on the hot side.
  • Size:

    Large enough that the entire snake can fit inside of it without much extra room, they prefer a tight space.
  • Material:

    Anything that will not damage the snake. No sharp corners. A rough outside surface can be beneficial when shedding.
  • Humid hide:

    Required. Waterproof tub with a lid. Large enough for the entire snake to fit in. The lid will have a hole cut out of it. Inside will be moist sphagnum moss / potting soil. This will have to be misted daily or as required. No water should pool on the bottom of the container. This is a lifesaver for shedding.

Water

  • Bowl size:

    Large enough for most of the snake to lay in.  My bowl is 18" diameter and 6" deep, soft rubber.
  • Bowl placement:

    Preferably on hot side if ventilation is good.  She uses it more if it's placed on top of her hot hide.  1/2 way under the che.
  • Amount:

    Filled 1/2 way. This is to prevent spilling and mold.
  • Refilling / Changing:

    Daily.
  • Cleaning:

    Daily.

Substrate

  • Paper towel:

    Fine.  Aesthetics are subpar.  Price is cheap.  Cleaning is easy.  Humidity is bad.
  • Reptile Carpet:

    Fine.  Aesthetics are fine.  Price is expensive.  Cleaning is easy.  Humidity is bad.
  • Newspaper:

    Fine.  Aesthetics are bad.  Price is cheap.  Cleaning is easy.  Humidity is bad.
  • Aspen:

    Fine.  Aesthetics are fine.  Price is medium.  Cleaning is medium.  Humidity is bad.
  • Coconut Husk:

    Fine.  Aesthetics are good.  Price is expensive.  Cleaning is medium.  Humidity is good.
  • Cypress Mulch:

    Fine.  Aesthetics are good.  Price is medium.  Cleaning is medium.  Humidity is ok.
  • ORCHID BARK WITH Spagnum Moss:

    Fine.  Aesthetics are good.  Price is expensive.  Cleaning is medium.  Humidity is good.
  • Other types of wood bedding:

    Possibly dangerous or deadly.

Lighting

  • Day:

    Not required. Ambient light is fine anything more is just so you can see in.
  • Night:

    Not required. Should not be provided.

Feeding

  • Types of prey:

    Rats, mice, chicks, eggs. Frozen / thawed preferred as it's just easier all around.
  • Size of prey:

    No more than 1 times as wide as the widest part of the snake.  They tend to prefer quantity over size, so if they can fit a medium rat but just barely they'd prefer many small rats instead.  I've had occasion near the onset of winter and colder temps where my girl will down 6+ small rats in a sitting and still beg for more.  Most snakes the rule is 1 1/2 times the widest part of their body, not with beauty snakes.
  • Average feed sizes:

    • Adults:

      Small/Medium size rats
    • Juveniles to adults:

      Medium size mice to small rats
    • Hatchling:

      Pinkies/fuzzies
    • Variables:

      Feeding span greatly depends on size and type of feed prey.


  • Amount of prey:

    The snake will let you know when it's done eating as it will not accept more food. This is individual to the snake. Some will take many feeders in one day. You'll have to get to know your own snake to figure out how many.  But, please watch their weight, they can quickly become fat.
  • Schedule:

    • Adults:

      Every 7 to 10 days.
    • Juveniles:

      Every 4 to 7 days
    • Hatchling:

      Pinkies/fuzzies every 4 to 5 days
    • Variables:

      Feeding span greatly depends on size and type of feed prey.

  • Handling after feeding:

    24 to 48 hours as a waiting period before handling again.
  • Feeding Equipment:

    Tongs. So the snake doesn't associate your smell with food, this is very important.
  • Feeding Location:

    • Snake:

      Inside or outside is fine. Seperate container is not necessary.
    • Prey:

      The snake will know where it is when you set it down. Just don't put it in the waterbowl.

  • Thawing:

    Place frozen prey in a zip lock bag. Seal it. Submerge it in warm (not hot) water for 30 minutes. A weight to keep it down helps. 15 minutes in, change the water to warm again. The prey item should feel slightly warm to the touch through the bag.
  • Problem eaters:

    There may be many reasons why your snake will not eat, including some more serious than others. Some snakes are shy eaters, some have no problem. Some prefer their food to be a particular temperature. Some prefer their food to be left alone for an extended period of time. What you can do if you need to is something called Braining. It's a general term describing opening up the prey in some fashion. If your snake refuses food alltogether, it might be time for a vet visit.

Suppliments

  • Gravid female:

    Calcium.

Cleaning

  • Cleaning Agents:

  • Schedule:

    • Monthly:

      Remove and disinfect everything inside and outside of cage.
      Complete substrate change.
      Inspect for damage.
      Inspect all equipment.
      Use bleach solution but zero bleach residue can be left.
    • Weekly:

      Wipe down whole cage using the vinegar solution. Spot check.
    • Daily:

      Spot check for droppings, change and clean water bowl.

Shared cages / multiple animals

  • multiple males (both taiwanese beauty snakes):

    Possible but not recommended.
  • multiple females (both taiwanese beauty snakes):

    Possible but not recommended.
  • multiple mixed (both taiwanese beauty snakes):

    Only if breeding.
  • multiple mixed (other species):

    Not recommended.

Veterinarian

  • type of vet:

    Herp specific or at least someone on staff who is qualified to work with them.
  • First Visit:

    After acclimation. Required.
  • Subsequent visits:

    As needed if problems arise.
  • Help finding one:

Ailments / illness

  • Dehydration:

    Probably the most common. Always provide clean water, changed daily.
  • Stress:

    Always provide two hides.
    Get to know when your snake is stressed. For beauty snakes it will involve heavy breathing and flighty behavior on the low end. Rearing up / "S" curving for a strike on the high end. If you see any of this let your snake be for a while to calm down.
  • Dysecdysis:

    Bad sheds, provide the humid hide and something for the snake to rub on, if that isn't working then let the snake soak in room temperature water for a while but not deep enough where the belly is elevated.
  • Mites / Ticks:

    Keep everything very clean.
    Remove with tweezers.
    Clean area with antiseptic.
    Treat with mite powder/spray.
    At first sign clean everything, after treatment, clean everything again.
  • Internal parasites:

    See your vet about deworming medicine and bring stool sample and a sample of feed prey.
    Follow vet's directions.
    Clean area with antiseptic.
  • Scale rot / blisters:

    See your vet.
    Follow vet's directions.
    Clean everything as a monthly cleaning.
    This is usually due to poor husbandry.
  • Respriratory illness:

    If you observe: wheezing, moucous, sneezing, mouth breathing.
    Raise the temperature by a few degrees and loweer the humidity in general.
    If this doesn't help: See your vet.
    Follow vet's directions.
  • Other illness:

    See your vet.
    Follow vet's directions.

5 comments :

  1. When i first go my beauty in 2000 estimated age rang was 12-15 years and she was already 10 years old, i took her on as my friend couldnt care for her anymore, he had her from a hatcnling in 1990,she is still going and just turned 26 years old, still incredible active and feeding well.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's awesome. I got one in December. Supposed to be about a year old but it's already 5ft long, so may be older?

      You're obviously doing something right, hopefully I can match your achievement!

      If you'd like to email me pics of her setup, it would be very much appreciated!

      Cheers,

      Bobby

      robert.tait.stewart@googlemail.com

      Delete
  2. Ive just got myself a nearly 3 year old VBB. She's very flighty and if I can't get her quick enough she gets very defensive/aggressive... Any tips for handling?
    She clearly hasn't been handled very much.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks for sharing the useful information about this specie. I want to know why is it called red when it has some yellowish golden skin color?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hey man i think you need to put more work into the format and out look of your blog as i feel that it needs improvement. Hope you din't mind the suggestion. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete