Taiwanese Beauty Snake Caresheet

Taiwanese Beauty Snake [ Orthriophis taeniurus friesei ] Caresheet

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Glasgow Scotland: snakes for adoption

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Cracker the Boa Constrictor at Drumoak Scottish SPCA centre in Aberdeenshire
Constrictor: Cracker the boa.Scottish SPCA
Dozens of abandoned and stray snakes are seeking new homes in Aberdeenshire.
The Scottish SPCA’s Drumoak centre has looked after 80 snakes this year so far, compared to just 14 in 2013 and 13 in 2012.
It is understood the increase is down to the Drumoak centre taking in snakes from the charity's Glasgow re-homing centre.
The charity has been left with 34 snakes needing new homes including a boa constrictor, pythons, corn snakes and a Taiwanese beauty rat snake.
Jacki Bell, senior animal care assistant, said: “We have a large variety of snakes, from tiny baby corn snakes to a Taiwanese beauty rat snake, boas and pythons.
"The majority are corn snakes which were found as strays and never reclaimed. Others were sadly abandoned and some arrived after their owners could no longer offer them the care they needed.
"Unfortunately we seem to struggle to rehome exotics animals in this area, especially corn snakes. This is a real shame as corn snakes are generally quite docile and easy to handle.
"They may be a good option for someone interested in exotics who hasn't owned a snake before. That said, we would certainly urge anyone thinking of taking on a snake to do their research before committing to one.
"While snakes aren't everyone's cup of tea, they can make excellent pets for owners who will appreciate them and meet all their needs.
"Anyone who wishes to meet our snakes are very welcome to come along or call us for further information on 03000 999 999."

Brumation, Hibernation, and Dormancy in reptiles / beauty snakes

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Brumation

"Brumation is a term used for the hibernation-like state that cold-blooded animals utilize during very cold weather. On the other end of the spectrum is a state known as aestivation, which like brumation, provides a way for reptiles to handle temperature extremes." - google define

"Brumation is an example of dormancy in reptiles that is similar to hibernation. It differs from hibernation in the metabolic processes involved.

Reptiles generally begin brumation in late fall (more specific times depend on the species). They often wake up to drink water and return to "sleep". They can go for months without food. Reptiles may want to eat more than usual before the brumation time but eat less or refuse food as the temperature drops. However, they do need to drink water. The brumation period is anywhere from one to eight months depending on the air temperature and the size, age, and health of the reptile. During the first year of life, many small reptiles do not fully brumate, but rather slow down and eat less often. Brumation is triggered by lack of heat and the decrease in the hours of daylight in winter, similar to hibernation." - wikipedia



As a general idea, brumation is just that, as previously stated, your snake will slow down, potentially preferring the cold hide and start refusing food.  This happened and is happening to my girl (November 13th) as it's getting much colder outside.  The temperature inside and in her enclosure has remained constant and I haven't lowered it.  She is choosing this and food is still being offered, last night it was two medium mice.  I dangled with tongs, moved it around, let her smell it, etc.  She just shied away and wanted nothing to do with them.  So I left the mice on her feeding tray outside of the cold hide (where she currently is) and this morning they were both still there.  So I repeated the process of enticing her to eat with no success.  They were discarded.

As an illustration, the temperature gradient of taiwan:

 and of Chicago (where I am):


While one graph is in Celsius and one is in Fahrenheit it's not hard to see that the temperature gradient month to month is about the same in both areas.  With Taiwan though the average lowest low is 10 deg C (50 deg F) and the highest high is 35 deg C (95 deg F) and this plays well with captivity as the cage/enclosure temperature shouldn't ever be lower than 50 deg F or higher than 95 deg F, infact I maintain what I've mentioned in the care sheet pretty closely with variations in room temperature.

So summing it up, my snake is choosing to brumate all I can do is try and make the best of it and keep providing the proper heat gradient, clean enclosure/water, and keep providing food.

Sunday, November 9, 2014

the move: a much bigger cage

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For about a month and some change I've had her in a 10 gallon tank, and while it was small, she was OK.  Today she was moved into her 125 gallon enclosure with a large soaking tub, 2 feet of flexwatt under and the ugh that was on the 10 as back heat, fake plants for her to climb on, etc.  Hopefully she likes it.  It does look much nicer overall.  I'll have some pics up pretty soon.






Thursday, November 6, 2014

Potential problem, bad shed after all

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11-6-14

Last night, Wednesday, was a feed day.  She accepted the first mouse by tong right away and ate it in front of us, my son included.  I hope he enjoyed the 'live' show.  And I think he did.  I left the other mouse in the tank with her, she didn't touch it, so it was removed this morning.  I'll try again today maybe.  I'm not that worried about that, but...

Prior to the feed, I had taken her out for her daily handling and I noticed that on the very tip of her tail she was missing scales and it was red, seems to be a bad shed last time after all.  That's no good.  I just hope it doesn't get infected.  The length of it is maybe a centimeter or less so it's not huge, but it does look painful and seeing as these are semi-arboreal it's something that will be used.  I don't know what'll happen to that portion of her tail honestly.  I guess either it'll heal and be fine (best outcome), not heal and fall off then heal all be it shorter (second best outcome), not heal and get infected (worst outcome).  I'll have to wait and see, and I'm considering a vet visit because of it.  I don't think it's necrosis / necrotic / hematoma yet, but she might need antibiotics.

Monday, November 3, 2014

Full feed, handling, bath

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11/2/14

I followed the standard Sunday routine of two defrosted medium mice and some privacy. It worked, she ate them both. I didn't do anything different than my last couple of posts in terms of thawing/prep/placement/etc. So I couldn't have been that far off in my guess at a good routine.

Prior to the feeding, maybe 6 hours earlier, I had taken her out and let her move around quite a bit, after a long warm up on me, she did just that.  And very much didn't want to be put back in her enclosure.  Good.

She seems to be getting much more use to being handled.  She never really had a problem with it, but now she just hangs out until I move around and she thinks it's time to play (read: escape).  And the 'staying on my wrist' time is getting better as well, I'm guessing that in a year or two of doing this I'll be able to take her out to a show or two, that'll be fun.

The night before that I gave her another warm water bath as there were some remnant scale flakes on her belly, hopefully that took care of them.  She still hates the bath.  I'm guessing that has more to do with being a semi-arboreal snake than it does with her specifically.